We choose the biggest. We began questioning the hotel managers and their answer was straight to the point: we got a discount. The conflict between Armenians and the Azerbaijani took a violent turn in and lasted until A large grin on his face, the man grabs hose and brush and starts to wash the car. For a couple of hours, we went in search for cheap hotels — until we found the ideal offer. We eventually learned the woman was Esma Arshba, a veteran, the symbol of Abkhazi resistance.
Four solid young men, wearing undershirts and flip-flops get placidly out of the car. They have improvised a partition wall by means of a rope on which several sheets are hanging. Leaning against a fence, an officer was just finishing his cigarette; he threw the stub on the ground, on a layer of stones and empty cartridges, some rusty, some brand new. For the first time on this journey, I have the distinct impression of having entered a Soviet country. The region faced its first anti-soviet rebellions in the s.
We ask if we can enter to take pictures and the people invite us to tea and halvah. For political reasons, the government has tried to keep refugees in temporary establishments such as wagons or tents in order to constantly exert pressure over the NKR. He seems content and wishes us god speed. Gas costs double the amount well, a piece of information which proves to be false. None of them refuse me and the hardest part is turning down their offer to stay longer. In Margara we are invited to park the car in a courtyard giving onto the border. Local journalists explained the situation: this is caused by the great monopoly held by politicians. Near the road: a colored and bulbs-filled bus now turned into a seafood restaurant.
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The cab whirls into a huge yard with a row of garages, each garage specializing on one reconditioning operation. He tells Sona he is from Kaliningrad, went to military academy and was, afterwards, sent to the Armenian border. He says working as a local journalist is pretty hard and some journalists even hold up two jobs. They are simply gone.
Sona showed up with a big plastic bag, several tens of copies of the paper he works at. This facilitates to break nails with bare hands after a second dive. He stops a cab and we jump in it, used clutch plate in hand. Our vehicle with its unknown tag and inadequate car body is a real sight. During our prolonged walk, we counted exactly three tourists. Old buildings that have been renovated look so new that they actually resemble theatre scenery.
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